I’ve written about this before. Moscow has a vast network of tunnels and halls under its surface. Some old bunkers, forgotten subway stations and much more. There are a few brave, who explore these tunnels. Apparently you can even take tours. The last time I heard about it, I was told its not very safe, though. Apparently, besides of structural problems and other dangerous stuff, some criminals are using the tunnels and they don’t want you to hang out there. Well, I guess you don’t have to go down there. We are living in a time, where you can watch all of this online on Youtube. Enjoy!

Let me say one thing upfront. I am not an artist or an art critic. Its probably good to keep that in mind, when you read the following. Last Sunday we decided to pay a visit to the new Winzavod Bazar. I was actually pleasantly surprised about the products offered and handcrafted goods. It was a real little market, Camden or Berlin style, just much much smaller (but it has potential). Its one of these moments, when you see something so familiar, but you are happy to see it in Moscow, since it hasn’t been there yet and its a clear sign of progress.

Hey, I’m on the CNN website. They wanted to have a foreigners view on Moscow. I’ve said some bad things about the city as well, but when shortening the article they must have cut them out. Well, better than the usual Russia bashing in the foreign media.
Anyway, read yourself (on CNN):
http://edition.cnn.com/2009/TRAVEL/05/05/moscow.localview/index.html
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In case you are wondering why the ground is suddenly shaking from tanks driving by, or you are alerted to jet noise over the city, which is usually a no-fly zone. Its the time of the year again. The annual 9th of may victory parade is near and the military is rehearsing for its big day. May 9th marks the day of the defeat of the Germans and is ever since a holiday with a army parade on Red Square. Last years parade marked a change with tanks and ballistic missiles appearing on the parade, not seen since the fall of communism.

On my way to work from the metro station to the office (its a 10 min walk) I counted 18 Landrovers and 6 Cayenne and 4 Mercedes GT Jeeps. Sorry, I stopped counting other models, but obviously these are among the favorite models of the Russian elite. Here is a video I just found on small world. A Russian SWAT team attempts to arrest some bankrobbers who have driven away in a Porsche Cayenne (License 177 177). They actually catch the wrong car in their first try, but realize it quickly.

Russia is known for its fierce winters. In fact, the Russians call it “General Winter”, because the winter helped them fight off so many invaders, including Napoleon and the Germans (but also the Vikings). Its the time of the year again and this time we have a real winter with - 15 C and lower. I actually like it. At least most parts of it.
At about 5 AM every morning (sometimes earlier) an army of workers starts to clean the streets, mainly by hand with brooms and shuffles, so that there isn’t a piece of ice or snow by the time the daily commute begins. Unfortunately they do this under my window and I am woken up daily at about 5 AM by the desperate scratching Kyrgyzstan workers, even on weekends and holidays (like now). I guess he’s thinking, if I don’t sleep, why would you?
Then there is an army of the road workers. Sweeping the snow off Moscow streets and walkways has system and these guys work day and mostly night to get the job done. First the snow gets pushed to the side, then some tractor or some special snow collecting machine loads it onto a truck and its driven to some station, where they finally dump it into the river (with all the salt and dirt that comes with it).
Being a Moscovite you blend this out and don’t see it anymore, but when I found this video on Youtube, I just remembered how impressed I have been about this process, when I first came here.

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Technorati Tags: Ice, Moscow, Snow, Winter, Zima

I know most Russians hate me saying that and not because I am wrong, but me as a foreigner, I don’t have to criticize Russia or Russians (at no time). Yes yes, I will earn discredit, but I’ll do it again anyway. In my opinion most Russians seem to have an identity crises. Period. They seem to have lost their identity sometime after the fall of communism or even much longer before. Nowadays most Russians follow role models projected in the mass media (mainly by Western companies) and they do this with a passion and energy that searches its comparison somewhere else on this planet. Men are trying to be some type of alpha male rich guy or an overly fashionable heterogeneous metro sexual. Women try to copy any of the characters in Sex in the City, Cashmere Mafia or others related role models. The best thing I have seen in a long time, were Paris Hilton style twins with little Mexican dogs in their handbags shopping at Metro. Its all about status symbols and showing off, which fits well into the original Russian culture. Yes, I hear my critics say it already: You just don’t get Russians.

This guy is the best example. He is a Russian RnB and Rap star. A rich kid, pretending to be Snoop Dog or something like that. Sorry for taking Timati as an example for ALL Russians, ha ha, he’d probably be proud of that. Representin’ Russia, ya know. Let me say upfront that I love Hip Hop and Hip Hop culture. I have been growing up with it in a German town with a US Army base and followed its development since I’m 12 years old. I turned away from Hip Hop, when it became Gangsta style and Turkish kids in my neighborhood pretended to be hoodlums from the South Bronx or South Central LA. It was a joke, because Munich or Berlin (even their worst dirty parts) are not like a ghetto in NYC or LA. In general I’m not a big fan of the Snoop Dog types, although one has to acknowledge his special style in particular.
I only found back to Hip Hop years later when I lived in New York. I met many people who were involved in Hip Hop and most appreciated the way, they didn’t take themselves serious. Even though some of these guys were drug dealers aka gangstas aka hoodlums or monkeys, how they called themselves with a self ironic smile, because of their funny walks. As a white boy, I’d never been allowed to use that expression, though. So what is it with black guys (Michael Jackson) wanting to be white and white boys (e.g. Timati) wanting to be black? What is it with Russians being so proud of their nation and still trying to be Americans so hard? Sorry, I just don’t get it.

This guy claims he is racing Timoti (orange Cayenne) and he is so proud that he won the race after all. It doesn’t occur to him, that there may be many Orange Cayenne’s in Moscow (even with a special paint job).
Racing in the crowded Moscow traffic, is not only incredibly stupid, but also potentially killing others. I have seen so many heavy accidents with innocent people being hurt or killed, because of idiots like these two guys. The Police should take their license and their cars for good. Where the fuck are they anyway? Usually they are hiding after every corner. Why they are not stopping them, but fucking me over for some missing document on a routine check? There are too many videos like this on Youtube and Russian video portals, but the GUI doesn’t seem to watch Youtube (the license plates are there!) and watching away in real life as well.

Timoti stopped by the police. Probably he was racing someone again. Well, by the amount of police cars you see around in this vid, it seems he was trying to run away, but got caught after all. In other countries, you’d lose your license and go to jail. Not in Russia. No drugs in the trunk? Not drunk? OK, give me a few hundred rubles and you can go.
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Technorati Tags: Hip Hop, Identity, Moscow, Racing, Speeding, Traffic

It was so quiet on Moscow streets in the past 2 weeks. Today we start a long work week and after the holidays we are back to business. No matter if you drive or take the metro. Its going to be painful. have a good and successful 2009 and hopefully your streets are free.

Sonia takes this turn at Kremlin when she goes to work every day. Its purely painful.
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Technorati Tags: Moscow, Traffic, Work

Wow! I’m impressed. Just found this really cool tool and from the looks of it, its from the official Moscow Metro authorities. Its a flash based map, which allows you to plan a trip. Its looking for the fastest way and calculating the time you need from A to B. This is a great and useful tool and even in English! If it would only load a bit faster and be printable, but nothing is perfect.
Here is it http://engl.mosmetro.ru/flash/scheme01.html
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Technorati Tags: city life, English, Metro, Moscow, moscow metro map, moskau, moskva, public transport, Route, route planning, ru, subway, time calculation, Traffic, Travel

Yes yes, I know. I wrote that a few times before and Garage seems to be like a cockroach staying alive long after you slapped it. Anyway, last Sunday Garage had another “closing” party. Apparently it has a new owner and he decided to close Garage and do something different with the place. Well, I only believe it, if its really closed in 2-3 weeks from now. Would be a pity, if one of Moscows best and oldest after hour clubs would be gone for good. RIP, I have to say. Had som egood times theer as well ;-)
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Technorati Tags: Afterhour, Garage, Moscow, Night Life, Nightlife

Uff, what a Winter. 0 C snow/rain for weeks now. We can feel global warming over here as well. This is my 6th Winter in Moscow. Last one was pretty mild already and this one started out fine with normal temperatures of -15 C, but for the past weeks we have the dirty slush and it doesn’t seem to come to an end. Worse is only the ice rain. Sometimes temperatures drop below 0C at the bottom, but slightly above Moscow it must be warmer, because its raining down on Moscow and turns it into an ice city. This happened about 3 times in the past week and this morning I slid to work again.

Its a problem for me with sneakers or mountain shoes already, but how painful is this for all of these high heeled women. I pay big respect to their ability to cope with this. Like the girl in front of me this morning. I was walking on a side street of Tverskaya near Pushkinskaya and its going downhill, but the walkway also drops to the left as well. You are sliding in a 45 degree angle to the down left into the parking cars. This girl was managing to walk down straight on the sidewalk with ultra high heels and she almost never slid or stopped. Only once at the bottom she went a bit more slowly. Respect!
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Technorati Tags: High Heels, Ice, Moscow, Rain, Streets, Winter, Woman, Women, Zima

I think I have written about this subject a few years ago, but now I am in Russia for even longer and its time to give my 5 cents about vodka and how to drink vodka with Russians or friends.
First of all, get to know your enemy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vodka
Read and find out that vodka is actually not typical Russian, but first appeared in Poland. Anyway, among other spirits, beer and wine, vodka  is probably one of the most popular drinks in today’s Russian culture.
Living in Russia you will be confronted with vodka one way or the other. Like it or not. I never liked it, but I got used to it and its actually the one drink that makes me drunk and doesn’t give me a heavy head. Of course good (real!) French champagne does the same, but you won’t find that a lot in Russia and if, its on the women side of the table. Yes Yes, I can hear the women and anti-alcoholics already,  since what does it make you a man, if you can drink a lot of vodka. Believe it or not (and I have this argument a lot), in Russia you are often judged (by other males) on how much vodka you can drink and how you behave, once you are drunk.
Vodka basics
There are 3 different sizes of vodkas and usually they are defined by “grams”. In a family environment (unless you are tested), you will most likely find the small glasses (25 gr). On business meetings, in restaurants and clubs, you’ll be confronted with 50 to 100 grams. Typically is 50 gr. Usually the vodka is drunk in one shot. Russians say “Bustarov” which is the same as “Nastrovje” and means “Stay healthy!” or “to your health”.

Whatever you do before drinking vodka, take your time and EAT! If there is a chance that you will have to drink, grab some fat, greasy food before. In the worst case a few burgers will do, but don’t go with an empty stomach, even if there is supposed to be food. Chances are that you have to drop 3 to 4 vodkas before you even have your first bite. Also make sure you drank a lot of water upfront and you are not arriving thirsty to your meeting.
On site try to get some none alcoholic side drinks. Water or mors will do. Don’t drink any beer or wine on the side, even if the Russians do. Russians have two important sayings which are related to drinking. One is, If you drink alone you are an alcoholic. The other is, If you drink without a reason, you are an alcoholic. So expect a toast every 10 to 15 minutes and after it will go around you will have to make one as well. So be prepared and have a few meaningful sentences ready. Don’t drink alone! In between drinking don’t forget to grab some food and drink water regularly. Fat and greasy stuff like Salo or Salmon will help you. Usually there is ham and salami as well. At least there will be lots of bread, which you can eat.
There are various occasions where you will be “forced” to drink:
The Business Meeting
I have seen various of these “business meetings” where people drank. Sometimes not even Russians, but accustomed foreigners. My worst was a lunch meeting. I had no breakfast and never expected to have to drink. Arrived with an empty stomach. There was no food and the “lunch” was about drinking beer and vodkas during discussing business. Needless to say, that I got completely wasted and I made a fool out of myself. Another “business”  meeting happened on a datcha and we went to a banja (Russian sauna). During the sessions we had to drink a few vodka shots with our Russian counterparts. At least there was food. As of today I didn’t figure out why Russians drink during these business meetings. It may be a social thing. They may think they can get into a better negotiating position against each other or it is just plainly cultural to seal a deal over a few drinks. Fact is that many deals are made over a few vodkas. Looking back, the main decision was often taken exactly during these sessions. BTW: Usually they drink 50 to 100 grams on these meetings. So, these are the hardest, in my opinion. The only good thing is, that your counterpart usually gets as drunk as you are.
Family Gatherings
Russians are social and like to get together with their families. They celebrate birthdays and other family events in small groups of about 10 people at home or in some restaurant. In my opinion Russians are not very hospital. Their home is their castle and only the closest people are  invited to these gatherings, so consider yourself lucky, if you are invited and try to leave a good impression. Getting wasted is probably not what you should leave as an impression. Alcohol plays a big role on these gatherings as well. There is often an aperitif before the first welcome vodka shot. I can’t stress it enough, even here you’ll be forced to drink before you get food, so better get prepared and stuff yourself before going there. These gatherings typically last a few hours. They start with long talks over plates of salads and many vodkas. When you think its finally over, someone will bring in the main dish and it will surely go on for another 2 hours at least. Every 10 to 15 min. Someone will get up (or raise the glass) and make a toast and shoot a vodka. They typically drink out of the small 25gr glasses, but its really depending on the family and the occasion. You  may find larger glasses, if you are introduced to your Russian girlfriends father (and he is testing you). Note that the women usually don’t drink vodka or they just a drink a bit. The more you drink, the more the women on the table will get upset with you (for not stopping) and the other men (for forcing you to drink more). While the women will tell you that it is OK to stop, you should know that the men will see that a different way. Check my “tricks” below. They may save you some troubles. If you have to make a decision (and you should as long as you can) to stop drinking, than note that the women rule the Russian family and their opinion overrules in most of the cases! So better please the mom, than the father. By the way, this is not about you drinking more than the father, brothers and uncles. In most cases they will be able to drink more than you. Its about how much you can drink. So push it, but not too far. You can say NO, when its time or even take a break in between. Its not a shame.
Friends, Clubs, Bars, Datcha
Russians like to drink and most of the men are proud of the fact that they can drink a lot. They are drinking for social reasons, but also to proof their strength to each other. Sometimes they also drink for emotional reasons, because it releases the deep depressive Russian soul. There will always be occasions where you are asked to shoot a few vodkas and it can easily become sort of a competition, but usually its more social. Depending on the people who invite you, you will be forced to drink 25 to 100gr portions and typically they’ll order the next round right after the last one was drunk, but it doesn’t mean you need to drink it right away. Let it stand and wait. There is not much you can do, other than drinking some water on the side, ordering some (fat!!) food or at least bread. In these cases its totally OK to say NO. Just make up some excuse and drink what you want (e.g. I need to drive. I have to go see my girlfriend, meeting some business partners later on etc). Yes, you may be looked at in a strange way by your opponent, but you’ll see him messed up a little later and you’ll be happy not to have participated further. Usually Russians drink moderate in public (believe it or not). In the club, they may have a bottle of vodka on the table, but they take shots only now and then and like to mix it or even drink a whiskey or cognac instead. Be aware of strangers who invite you for vodkas. It often happened to me that the neighbor table invited me for a shot, especially if they realize I am a foreigner. You can always get up and move on or make an excuse. You don’t have to stay on their table. In some cases their motivation may even be to rob you later on or trouble you otherwise, so keep the drinking under control. Also be aware of your typical Expat friends. Any of mine got accustomed to vodka drinking and order one shot after another, while hanging out at the bar. Some of my Expat friends drink faster and more than Russians (in public). Also here you don’t have to participate. Just shoot one or 2 with them and then stop or go to the dance floor to take a break.
Tricks
Over the time I developed and learned a few tricks on how to deal with vodka.
Lets start with some plausible excuses. You cannot do that all the time, but the family accepts it and especially the women will appreciate it very much (while the men will try to talk you into drinking with them). You can always say, you are sick and you took some medicine. Penicillin doesn’t go well with vodka, allergy pills neither. Note that Russians think vodka is a good cure for various illnesses. A flu, stomach bug or hangover from last night won’t cut it. You need the medicine aspect to it.
Spilling the drink is widely used by many of my friends. You can spill a bit from the glass, if its topped or you can simply knock it over by accident. Its important that you do that while they are not watching, otherwise they’ll fill it up again. You can also get a glass of coke or mors on the side (or better wine or beer). Drink some of it and use it as a bin/deposit. Whenever they don’t watch, you can get rid of some vodka into the beer (or coke). Don’t empty the vodka glass. You will always need some vodka to drink with them.  But half is better than full (in this case). You will realize that this gets easier, the more the others are drunk. Don’t worry about the women on the table. They will be quiet, appreciate what you do and support you (usually). Some of my friends also occasionally use flower pots and other nearby things to poor the vodka away. Of course be careful, the Mom is probably not happy, if you kill her favorite plant with vodka ;-)

Halfs. This is my favorite. Drink full shots for the first 3 times and then only drink halfs. Hide the glass behind another or anything else and only pop it out when its time for a refill. The more the others get drunk, the less they’ll realize they are filling up a half full glass. At the end the glass is full, they are happy and you shoot only half again next time. It may be even recognized by one or the other, but its accepted (in my experience). If you are with people you know, you can also do it more openly.
Water. This one was shown to me by the aunt of my girlfriend, when she felt I am having too much. To be honest, I feel embarrassed to use it, but  since she showed it to me, I guess its used. She filled water into my vodka glass when the others were not watching. That of course only works, if you have a supporter on the table or they gave you your own little vodka bottle, which happens a lot, especially on family gatherings. Note that you’ll have to get rid of some of that vodka, though. Also note, that its often very expensive vodka and as for spilling (on purpose) you’d piss your host off, if you get caught.
Well, that is my bag of tricks. Of course you can simply say no. As said before, in Russian families (but also when going out), the women rule and they usually appreciate that move. So while you may lose the respect of your future father in law, you may win the heart of the mother, which in most cases is much more important. And don’t forget. Eat! Eat! Eat! … and drink mors or water in between. If you follow these rules, you should be able to get through this without loosing control or some severe alcohol poisoning. If you stay with vodka alone, you’ll most likely also not have a heavy head the next day. Unless it was cheap stuff you were offered.
So what is my favorite vodka? My girlfriends father makes his own and I like that very much. Other than that my favorite is Dolgoruki, which is 3 times destilled and therefore smooth. There are other good high quality vodkas, like Beluga or Russkie Standards Imperial.
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Technorati Tags: Drinking, How To, Moscow, Vodka

People wait about 20 min at this turn near Kremlin until some cop is switching the light to green. After a while they start honking to make give the cop a little stress and to let him know that he is taking his time too long already. This is happening all over the place, but especially on this turn since its related to the main entrance of Kremlin and whenever a VIP goes in or out, the cops hold the traffic, causing massive traffic jams.

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